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- <text id=89TT0995>
- <link 90TT2456>
- <title>
- Apr. 17, 1989: A Tale Of Two Villages
- </title>
- <history>
- TIME--The Weekly Newsmagazine--1989
- Apr. 17, 1989 Alaska
- </history>
- <article>
- <source>Time Magazine</source>
- <hdr>
- ENVIRONMENT, Page 62
- A Tale of Two Villages
- </hdr><body>
- <p> One of Alaska's treasures -- and a major center of the
- dispute over oil exploration -- is a park the size of eight
- Yellowstones. Within this vast preserve, called the Arctic
- National Wildlife Refuge, lies a 1.5 million-acre section of
- the coastal plain that the oil industry insists has the
- greatest potential of any land in the U.S. Only two native
- villages abut this vast park: Arctic Village, on the southern
- border in the foothills of the Brooks Range, which is home to
- 100 Gwich'in members of the Athapaskan Indian group; and
- Kaktovik, on Barter Island, far to the north at the edge of the
- Beaufort Sea, where 200 Eskimos live. These two villages,
- divided about the wisdom of oil exploration, are microcosms of
- two positions in the battle for the future of Alaska.
- </p>
- <p> When they abandoned their nomadic ways in the early part of
- this century, the Gwich'in Indians settled on an ancient hunting
- site in the foothills of the Brooks Range, smack in the middle
- of the annual migratory path of the Porcupine caribou herd.
- Prompted by fears that proposed oil development on the coastal
- plain would interfere with caribou migration and calving, the
- Gwich'in nation last June convened its first gathering in many
- generations, and passed a tribal resolution calling upon the
- Government to prohibit oil exploration or development in the
- refuge. Says Abel Tritt, a Gwich'in elder: "We don't worry about
- ourselves but about the herds, a`nd the animals that depend on
- the herds. If the herd goes, they go, and then we go."
- </p>
- <p> Surrounded by vast, empty wilderness, the Gwich'in have only
- grudgingly allowed the intrusions of modern life. They have
- moved from caribou tents to log homes, from bows and arrows to
- rifles, from dogsleds to snowmobiles. But they argue that they
- can pick and choose from modernity without losing their soul. In
- 1971, instead of participating in the Alaska Native Claims
- Settlement Act, the Gwich'in Indians chose to retain their
- Delaware-size (1.8 million acres) reservation extending south
- from the Arctic refuge. Today they have little cash, but
- Trimble Gilbert, their newly elected chief, believes that
- history has vindicated their choice. "Money is not really good
- for native peoples," he says. "Here you don't see drugs and
- alcohol, or suicide and murder. Here people walk around proud
- that we have our land."
- </p>
- <p> Still, says Gilbert, the land is nothing without the
- caribou. "Ever since they are little, Gwich'in are hungry for
- caribou," says the chief, speaking of a hunger that is more
- than a physical appetite. "If there are no caribou, people will
- not want to live here anymore." It is for this reason that
- tribe members oppose oil development. Caribou will not calve
- near rigs or pipelines, they argue. "Oil does not combine with
- living things," says Tritt.
- </p>
- <p> The Eskimos in Kaktovik also hunt caribou, but they depend
- more heavily on the sea, where captains like Isaac Akootchook go
- out in 18-ft. boats after seal and bowhead whale. The Inupiat
- (as they prefer to be called), who chose to participate in the
- 1971 claims settlement, have benefited from oil revenues in the
- form of a school, a community center and other projects. "We
- feel caught in the middle," says Akootchook. "We don't like
- exploration, but if we oppose it and they impose it anyway, we
- get nothing."
- </p>
- <p> Thus the Inupiat formally support exploration of the coastal
- refuge, but with less certainty than before.r Their opposition
- to offshore drilling remains steadfast. What the caribou are to
- the Gwich'in, whales and seals are to the Inupiat. Some of the
- village's ten whaling captains say seismic activity during oil
- exploration two years ago drove off the bowheads, and they fear
- a catastrophic spill. "If a well blew here with the wind at 40
- knots, how are they going to clean that up?" asks Akootchook.
- </p>
- <p> In the wake of the Valdez spill, many of the villagers have
- begun to re-examine their backing of drilling elsewhere in the
- refuge. One of them is Captain Isaac's daughter Susie
- Akootchook. "Traveling to and from our camp, I saw how
- beautiful the refuge was," she says. "And now with that spill
- in that beautiful sound, I have changed my position. I would
- like to see the village vote on it again."
- </p>
- <p> In both villages there is a feeling that voices are not
- being heard. "People think, Why fight if it's going to come
- anyway?" says Flossie Lampe. The 23-year-old Inupiat, a
- technician in a plant that manufactures sealed windows,
- recently bagged her first musk-ox. Now she opposes oil
- development. "Jobs won't always be here," she says, "but you can
- always go out and hunt."
- </p>
-
- </body></article>
- </text>
-
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